Pro Tip: Understanding Yarn Weight

Published: June 10, 2024 ~ 0

Happy Monday, dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! If yarn weight is not taken into consideration and inappropriate needles/hooks are used, the results of your work may come out looking and feeling either too tightly or loosely weaved. No crafter wants that! So, let’s take a moment to learn about the importance of yarn weight and how it directly affects our crafting projects.

So what is yarn weight? Yarn weight in this case concerns the thickness of the yarn fiber and not the actual weight (heaviness) of it. When working with any particular yarn on a project, its yarn weight directly affects how the weave looks and feels. When paired with different needles/hooks, it can also affect how long a project can take to complete.

The Craft Yarn Council of America created a standard system of symbols and numbers to help identify yarn weights and included recommended needle/hook sizes and expected ranges for gauges. It is important to remember that these are merely suggestions. As such, it is important to create a swatch when working with yarn in a project to properly measure the combination of the expected number of stitches per inch (or cm) and your individual tension plus other variables. That being said, the Craft Yarn Council of America’s numbered system of yarn weights is generally quite useful when knowing what to expect with any particular yarn.

The included chart shows all of the yarn weights and their corresponding categories, recommendations of needle/hook choice, and expected gauge ranges. Here are some small notes concerning the chart:

** The lace weight yarns are usually crafted using larger needles and hooks to create more airy and lacy projects. Because of this, the gauge range expectations are more difficult to determine and you should always follow what gauge your pattern calls for.

*** Please be aware that steel crochet hook numbers are differently sized when compared to regular hook sizing. This means that higher numbers results in smaller hooks, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing.

A Pro Tip for the First Stand Downs of 2024

Published: January 22, 2024 ~ 0

Happy Monday dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! We’ve got the first Stand Downs of 2024 right around the corner! We are hard at work collecting donations for these Stand Downs and also have our heads down crafting goods of our own at our HQ! If you are interested in crafting gifts for T.H.R.I.V.E. Association, please take the following to heart:

When you donate your handcrafted gifts to T.H.R.I.V.E. Association for us to disseminate at VA Stand Downs, the veterans and their dependents are ultimately the ones who chose what they will accept from our booth. Please understand that we are not trying to be persnickety or impose arbitrary rules. Over the years, we have witnessed numerous instances at Stand Downs where veterans would rather leave empty handed (in freezing temperatures no less) than accept garments that they deemed were undignified. This is always so heartbreaking! Therefore, it is essential to always keep the recipient of every handcrafted gift in mind.

As crafters, it is sometimes tempting to use flashy colored yarns/textiles, color work, and fancy stitches in our crafted goods. However, these qualities are by and large not desired by the community that we serve. These proud individuals tend to prefer darker colors and straight-to-the-point garments. We want to provide them with what they need. If you have your heart set on practicing your color work, then sports team colors are always a fan favorite. However, the vast majority want either straight camouflage or solid blacks, blues, greens, grays, dark reds, and royal purples. Happy crafting!

Cast On Q & A

Published: June 26, 2023 ~ 0

Happy Monday, dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! One question that our staff frequently get asked is how many stitches would need to be cast on for a scarf (garter, rib, etc.) that would meet T.H.R.I.V.E. Association’s scarf dimension requirements (6 in. x 60 in. [15 cm. x 152 cm.]) Unfortunately there is no hard number, as something like this is heavily reliant on the individual crafter’s tension, their chosen knitting needles/crochet hook size, and the chosen pattern.

The most important part of the success of any handcrafted garment is the individual crafter. You might choose a pattern for a garment that you are absolutely in love with, put in the hours of hard work, use the same yarn and the same size needles/crochet hooks, etc. that the pattern calls for, but still end up not having a garment that is the correct size or feel (i.e. the weave is too loose, or it is so tight that it stands up on it’s own). This is largely due to variations in crafter tension and a failure to account for those variations in your project. The pattern is going to be the same for each crafter that uses it, but the results won’t necessarily be the same unless you know your tension BEFORE you start and account for that difference. The only way to do this is to make a gauge swatch using the same tools/materials/etc. that you will be using for your chosen handcrafted garment. That swatch is your guide to figure out whether or not you are knitting/crocheting to gauge or if you need to change your crafting tool size to obtain the requisite gauge.

So, to return to the original question of how many stitches are needed for a 6 in. x 60 in. (15 cm. x 152 cm.) scarf, let’s approach this bit by bit. Choose your yarn and look at the label. Most modern yarn labels have a recommended gauge using a certain needle/hook size and number of stitches. In the photo above, the Red Heart Camouflage yarn suggests that knitting a stockinette swatch that is 17 stitches across for 25 rows when using a Size 8 US needle results in a 4 in. x 4 in. swatch. Once you have made a stockinette swatch using those numbers with this yarn, you can now adjust as needed. If your swatch measures smaller than the recommendation, then go up a needle size. If your swatch is larger, go down a needle size. The same is true when crocheting.

In summation, there is no hard and fast answer to this question. There are multiple variables to take into account. In the case of using the yarn and stockinette swatch from our example, to find how many stitches are required for a width of 6 inches (which is the minimum width requirement for all scarves donated to T.H.R.I.V.E. Association), we would divide 17 by 4 to find out how many stitches are in each inch. Once we have that answer, we would then multiply that number by 6. In other words:

17 / 4 = 4.25

4.25 x 6 = 25.5

Thus, if you were knitting a stockinette scarf you would cast on about 25-26 stitches with size 8 US needles if your stockinette swatch was knit true to gauge. It is important to emphasize that the main variable is the crafter.

Note: Another variable that needs to be considered is the stitch that you choose to use for the scarf that you want to donate. For example, a rib scarf will need more stitches to be cast on as it will stretch. This is why a gauge swatch using your chosen materials, needle size/crochet hook size, and pattern will ultimately lead you to getting the best results.

A Tip for Tidy Edges

Published: May 1, 2023 ~ 0

Happy Monday/May Day, dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! We’ve noticed that some of the donated scarves that we have received have uneven edges due to accidental increases. But have no fear, we’ve got a very simple and effective tip that will give any knit scarf that you apply it to some wonderfully clean edges!

To accomplish this, simply add two additional stitches to whatever scarf pattern you are using. These two additional stitches are your “edge stitches” and are NOT part of the pattern; they are simply there to give you clean edges. So if your chosen pattern instructs you to cast on 30 stitches, you would cast on 32. At the beginning of every round, you slip the first stitch purl-wise instead of working it and then continue working in pattern as instructed. When you get to the last stitch of the row, knit the last stitch. It is important to note that the first of the two edge stitches (the one at the beginning of the row), is always slipped purl-wise and the second edge stitch (at the end of the row) is always knit. That’s it, no more uneven edges! Sometimes some of the simplest techniques net you the most consistent results! Happy crafting!

Know Your Gauge!

Published: August 22, 2022 ~ 0

Happy Monday, dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! We’ve touched on gauge a bit in the past, but we felt that we wanted to reiterate how truly crucial it is to be knowledgeable of your own personal tension when crafting a garment. We generally ask for most of our finished garments to be sized for an average American adult. Even if you are following your chosen pattern’s suggested cast-on stitches, needles/hooks size, and even the recommended yarn, it is still entirely possible to end up with a garment that is either too loose or too tight/stiff. This is where knowing your personal tension comes into play.

Most of us have a rough idea about our individual crafting tension (i.e. whether we’re tight knitters/crocheters or loose knitters/crocheters). This is a great start, but it doesn’t always paint the full picture. When you look at a pattern for a garment that you would like to make, the designer has a specific denoted gauge that is required to achieve the optimal fit and look of that finished garment. This is actually really important to take note of, and in order for the garment to fit correctly and look like it does on the model, it is good practice to adhere to the designer’s requested gauge.

Thus, it is crucial to knit or crochet a gauge swatch with your chosen needles/hooks and yarn. This is a really good way to gauge (ha ha, pun intended) whether you are crafting true to the pattern designer’s gauge or not. If you find that your tension is too loose or too tight, don’t change yourself – change your tools! If you are too tight, move up a needle/hook size to attain the correct gauge. If you are too loose, move down a needle/hook size.

Always Swatch Before You Start

Published: May 16, 2022 ~ 0

Happy Monday, dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! Okay, so our title for this week’s blog post is a bit cheeky, but it’s still great advice. Seriously! We cannot overemphasize the importance of swatching. Knowing your personal tension with your chosen needles, hooks, etc. is crucial for any project.

Most of us have a rough idea about our individual crafting tension (i.e. whether we’re tight knitters/crocheters or loose knitters/crocheters). This is a great start, but it doesn’t always paint the full picture. When you look at a pattern for a garment that you would like to make, the designer has a specific denoted tension that is required to achieve the optimal fit and look of that finished garment. This is actually really important to take note of, and in order for the garment to fit correctly and look like it does on the model, it is good practice to adhere to the designer’s requested tension.

Now, even if you are using the suggested yarn, needles/hooks size, and have a good idea of your overall tension, it is still crucial to knit/crochet a swatch using your chosen needles/hooks. This is because even if the tools that you are using are the same size as those suggested in the pattern, not all needles/hooks (at least in our experience) are actually the same size. There is generally some slight variation between the various manufacturers and the materials used may potentially play a part in that. The photos in this post are an example of the variance between two swatches that were made using two different brands’ U.S. size 8 needles. Despite being knit with the same needle size, yarn, stitches/rounds, tension, and knitter the two swatches are noticeably different in completed size! These U.S. size 8’s are just that different from each other! This is admittedly a bit confusing, and sometimes frustrating. But, it’s workable if you go in eyes wide-open. Remember, even some seemingly slight variation (even if it is just a millimeter) between the needles/hooks of the same size can have a big impact overall. So, it is always good to make a swatch before tackling a project to get the best results!

The Ultimate Knitter’s and Crocheter’s Tip! Wait for it…The Humble Stitch Marker!

Published: April 4, 2022 ~ 0

Happy Monday dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! We hope that you have all had a great weekend and we are so excited to be back with you! As promised, we have so much awesomeness to share! So, let’s get going!

Yes, you did read the title correctly. We are not pulling your leg here. We have unveiled the world’s greatest knitting/crocheting tip. Honestly, it really is the greatest knitting tip that we found ourselves giving out all the time to new knitters and crocheters- “use a stitch marker”. We know, most of you out there are probably like “well yeah, duh!”, or “really, that’s it?” But truthfully, we run into this all the time! Several of the crafters that we work with don’t realize the glory of these amazing little tools. The humble stitch marker takes the guess work out of your crafting! It lets you know when you are at the beginning of a round, helps you count rounds, helps you know where you are in your pattern, we could go on forever. This is not to throw shade on anyone, it is simply a tip to make your crafting lives so much easier and your work way more consistent. (Additionally, it does show mercy to your knitting/crocheting instructor)

Truth be told, you don’t have to buy the phenomenal handmade bejeweled stitch markers that you have been eying for months. Those aren’t bad by any stretch of the imagination. In fact, many of us use them in our personal knitting, and they make an already fun job just that much more exciting! But, putting that to one side, you can totally use something that we all have- scrap yarn. Honestly, no one will judge you for upcycling your scraps like this. Alternatively, if that doesn’t appeal to you, that’s cool. You could also use a ring, or even a safety pin or paper clip. It all accomplishes the same thing- knowing where you are in your work.

Questions and Answers Part 3 – Dye Lots

Published: March 26, 2022 ~ 0

Good morning, dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! This week, we would like to continue our “Question and Answer” series. We have been getting some great questions from our amazing crafters and we would like to take a moment to try and answer some of them.

Have you ever wondered why two balls, hanks, skeins, etc. of yarn that are from the same company have the same color name on their yarn sleeve, but look like completely different colors? It is actually very common; you’re not seeing things. Believe us, we run into it all the time. The example photo shows the variance that occurs within the same brand’s colorway.

The reason has to do with the “dye lot” of the yarn. Most of the time, there is going to be some variance even within the same colors, especially from different dye lots! Generally, no two dye lots are ever the same. And, that’s okay. We are knowledgable crafters; we can account for that. If you are starting a project that requires more than one ball, hank, skein, etc., try to get all of the required yarn from the same dye lot number. Some yarns will not have a dye lot number and will simply state “no dye lot.” In this case, trust your eyes. They are really pretty reliable. If you need a reminder about where to find the dye lot number on the yarn label, please follow the link below to check out our blog on “Demystifying Yarn Labels” https://thrivevets.org/index.php/2021/10/18/demystifying-yarn-labels/.

Yarn Substitution

Published: November 5, 2021 ~ 0

Happy Friday, dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! Some of our recent blog posts touched on demystifying yarn labels and explaining the Craft Yarn Council’s Standard Yarn Weight system. However, we’ve had many questions from several volunteers about yarn substitution and we’d like to answer some of those questions!

Yarn substitution is when you want to substitute a different yarn than the one recommended by the pattern that you are using. There could be many reasons why you might want to: you may want to avoid a certain type of yarn because of allergies or preference of fibers, you may want to use out yarns that are already available in your stash, or you may want to use a more economical option than the yarn suggested, etc. Either way, there are certain considerations that you must keep in mind when substituting different yarn(s).

One of the first things to check, is whether the yarn company (e.g. Red Heart, Lion Brand) providing your pattern has a dedicated page on their website concerning suggested yarn substitutions. This may save you the time of trying to find a suitable yarn that will work with your chosen pattern.

The next consideration when choosing a proper yarn substitute is choosing a yarn that falls within the same weight (thickness) category in the Craft Yarn Council’s Standard Yarn Weight system. For example, if the yarn suggested in your pattern calls for a Worsted Medium (4) weight yarn, a good rule of thumb would be to use another Worsted Medium (4) weight yarn to substitute and not a different weight class of yarn, such as a DK Light (3) weight yarn or a Bulky (5) weight yarn. Any big differences might lead to a garment looking, fitting, and/or draping drastically differently than you might otherwise want. Note: the classifications in the Standard Yarn Weight system contain variance in thickness within each individual number. A common example of this would be choosing a pattern that calls for a certain Medium (4) weight yarn. A Medium (4) weight yarn could range from a true Worsted weight yarn all the way to a thicker Aran weight yarn. This could result in, for example, one brand’s Medium (4) weight yarn to be thicker or thinner than their own or another brand’s Medium (4) weight yarn.

Another important thing to consider when substituting is the length/weight, such as yards/grams, of the yarn. So if your pattern calls for a yarn that is 180 yards long and weighs 100 grams, you should endeavor to use a yarn that is similar enough to that ratio in both length/weight. In our experience, changing this too much does have a big effect on the finished garment.

The next things to consider when substituting are the fiber content and texture of the yarn. A 100% Acrylic smooth and shiny yarn will most likely look, feel, stretch, and drape differently than a 50/50% rough and fuzzy Alpaca Wool/Cotton blended yarn. Make sure to keep this in mind when substituting and, if you want to keep it simple, use similar enough substitutes to avoid unwanted impacts to the completed pattern.

Finally, it is always a good idea to make a swatch with your substitute before you dive into the pattern in order to test out if your substitute is going to work the way you and the pattern intend. You may find that you need to move up or down a needle or hook size, or you might even find that your yarn substitute isn’t suitable at all!

Whatever the case, whenever you choose to substitute a different yarn than what the pattern calls for, taking these considerations into account and testing them out in a swatch before you begin will help to ensure that your finished garment will much more closely resemble what the pattern details and you’ll assuredly be glad you took the time to plan/test it out!

Demystifying Yarn Labels

Published: October 18, 2021 ~ 0

We get a lot of questions about individual skeins of yarn and what their labels/symbols mean. The information on the label is critical when choosing what needle/hook to use, knowing how many skeins you will need, and so much more. Most questions about a specific yarn and how to use it can be answered just by reading and utilizing the information given on its label. Here is an overview of how to read one:

Brand name of the yarn
Yarn materials – This details the composition of the yarn itself.
Yarn weight symbol – This symbol represents the size of the yarn from numbers 1-7, with 1 (Lace) being the smallest/thinnest to 7 (Jumbo) being the largest/widest. We are going to delve into all of the yarn weight numbers and what they mean in our next blog post, so stay tuned!
Color name and number – This is the name of the color and its corresponding number. The color name/number and the brand name are vital identifiers when you need to locate some more of the exact same yarn, whether at a store or online.
Dye lot number – Have you ever noticed that sometimes the same color of a brand of yarns don’t quite look the same? Most of the time, there is going to be some variance even within the same colors! Use the same dye lot number whenever you can if you are planning to start a project that will require more than one skein of yarn. Some yarns will not have a dye lot number and will simply state “no dye lot.”
Weight of yarn in ounces and grams
Care instructions
Company name and address
Yarn length in yards and meters – The length of the yarn is very important information, as most if not all patterns detail just how much you will need to complete the project. Knowing the yarn length and how much your pattern calls for will save you another trip to the store if you can purchase exactly what you need beforehand!
Gauge information – These information boxes detail the suggested knitting needles and crochet hooks to use when working with the yarn. The other numbers around each box represent the expected gauge, which is the number of stitches per inch and 10x10cm swatch. Use the information provided here to help choose what size needle or hook that you will need, whether by going with the suggested size or making a swatch with the yarn and adjusting your size based on your particular knitting/crocheting tension and output.