Know Your Gauge!

Happy Monday, dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! We’ve touched on gauge a bit in the past, but we felt that we wanted to reiterate how truly crucial it is to be knowledgeable of your own personal tension when crafting a garment. We generally ask for most of our finished garments to be sized for an average American adult. Even if you are following your chosen pattern’s suggested cast-on stitches, needles/hooks size, and even the recommended yarn, it is still entirely possible to end up with a garment that is either too loose or too tight/stiff. This is where knowing your personal tension comes into play.

Most of us have a rough idea about our individual crafting tension (i.e. whether we’re tight knitters/crocheters or loose knitters/crocheters). This is a great start, but it doesn’t always paint the full picture. When you look at a pattern for a garment that you would like to make, the designer has a specific denoted gauge that is required to achieve the optimal fit and look of that finished garment. This is actually really important to take note of, and in order for the garment to fit correctly and look like it does on the model, it is good practice to adhere to the designer’s requested gauge.

Thus, it is crucial to knit or crochet a gauge swatch with your chosen needles/hooks and yarn. This is a really good way to gauge (ha ha, pun intended) whether you are crafting true to the pattern designer’s gauge or not. If you find that your tension is too loose or too tight, don’t change yourself – change your tools! If you are too tight, move up a needle/hook size to attain the correct gauge. If you are too loose, move down a needle/hook size.


Always Swatch Before You Start

Happy Monday, dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! Okay, so our title for this week’s blog post is a bit cheeky, but it’s still great advice. Seriously! We cannot overemphasize the importance of swatching. Knowing your personal tension with your chosen needles, hooks, etc. is crucial for any project. 

Most of us have a rough idea about our individual crafting tension (i.e. whether we’re tight knitters/crocheters or loose knitters/crocheters). This is a great start, but it doesn’t always paint the full picture. When you look at a pattern for a garment that you would like to make, the designer has a specific denoted tension that is required to achieve the optimal fit and look of that finished garment. This is actually really important to take note of, and in order for the garment to fit correctly and look like it does on the model, it is good practice to adhere to the designer’s requested tension. 

Now, even if you are using the suggested yarn, needles/hooks size, and have a good idea of your overall tension, it is still crucial to knit/crochet a swatch using your chosen needles/hooks. This is because even if the tools that you are using are the same size as those suggested in the pattern, not all needles/hooks (at least in our experience) are actually the same size. There is generally some slight variation between the various manufacturers and the materials used may potentially play a part in that. The photos in this post are an example of the variance between two swatches that were made using two different brands’ U.S. size 8 needles. Despite being knit with the same needle size, yarn, stitches/rounds, tension, and knitter the two swatches are noticeably different in completed size! These U.S. size 8’s are just that different from each other! This is admittedly a bit confusing, and sometimes frustrating. But, it’s workable if you go in eyes wide-open. Remember, even some seemingly slight variation (even if it is just a millimeter) between the needles/hooks of the same size can have a big impact overall. So, it is always good to make a swatch before tackling a project to get the best results!


The Ultimate Knitter’s and Crocheter’s Tip! Wait for it…The Humble Stitch Marker!

Happy Monday dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! We hope that you have all had a great weekend and we are so excited to be back with you! As promised, we have so much awesomeness to share! So, let’s get going!

Yes, you did read the title correctly. We are not pulling your leg here. We have unveiled the world’s greatest knitting/crocheting tip. Honestly, it really is the greatest knitting tip that we found ourselves giving out all the time to new knitters and crocheters- “use a stitch marker”. We know, most of you out there are probably like “well yeah, duh!”, or “really, that’s it?” But truthfully, we run into this all the time! Several of the crafters that we work with don’t realize the glory of these amazing little tools. The humble stitch marker takes the guess work out of your crafting! It lets you know when you are at the beginning of a round, helps you count rounds, helps you know where you are in your pattern, we could go on forever. This is not to throw shade on anyone, it is simply a tip to make your crafting lives so much easier and your work way more consistent. (Additionally, it does show mercy to your knitting/crocheting instructor) 

Truth be told, you don’t have to buy the phenomenal handmade bejeweled stitch markers that you have been eying for months. Those aren’t bad by any stretch of the imagination. In fact, many of us use them in our personal knitting, and they make an already fun job just that much more exciting! But, putting that to one side, you can totally use something that we all have- scrap yarn. Honestly, no one will judge you for upcycling your scraps like this. Alternatively, if that doesn’t appeal to you, that’s cool. You could also use a ring, or even a safety pin or paper clip. It all accomplishes the same thing- knowing where you are in your work.


Questions and Answers Part 3 – Dye Lots

Good morning, dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! This week, we would like to continue our “Question and Answer” series. We have been getting some great questions from our amazing crafters and we would like to take a moment to try and answer some of them. 

      Have you ever wondered why two balls, hanks, skeins, etc. of yarn that are from the same company have the same color name on their yarn sleeve, but look like completely different colors? It is actually very common; you’re not seeing things. Believe us, we run into it all the time. The example photo shows the variance that occurs within the same brand’s colorway.

      The reason has to do with the “dye lot” of the yarn. Most of the time, there is going to be some variance even within the same colors, especially from different dye lots! Generally, no two dye lots are ever the same. And, that’s okay. We are knowledgable crafters; we can account for that. If you are starting a project that requires more than one ball, hank, skein, etc., try to get all of the required yarn from the same dye lot number. Some yarns will not have a dye lot number and will simply state “no dye lot.” In this case, trust your eyes. They are really pretty reliable. If you need a reminder about where to find the dye lot number on the yarn label, please follow the link below to check out our blog on “Demystifying Yarn Labels” https://thrivevets.org/index.php/2021/10/18/demystifying-yarn-labels/.


Yarn Substitution

Happy Friday, dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! Some of our recent blog posts touched on demystifying yarn labels and explaining the Craft Yarn Council’s Standard Yarn Weight system. However, we’ve had many questions from several volunteers about yarn substitution and we’d like to answer some of those questions!

Yarn substitution is when you want to substitute a different yarn than the one recommended by the pattern that you are using. There could be many reasons why you might want to: you may want to avoid a certain type of yarn because of allergies or preference of fibers, you may want to use out yarns that are already available in your stash, or you may want to use a more economical option than the yarn suggested, etc. Either way, there are certain considerations that you must keep in mind when substituting different yarn(s). 

One of the first things to check, is whether the yarn company (e.g. Red Heart, Lion Brand) providing your pattern has a dedicated page on their website concerning suggested yarn substitutions. This may save you the time of trying to find a suitable yarn that will work with your chosen pattern.

The next consideration when choosing a proper yarn substitute is choosing a yarn that falls within the same weight (thickness) category in the Craft Yarn Council’s Standard Yarn Weight system. For example, if the yarn suggested in your pattern calls for a Worsted Medium (4) weight yarn, a good rule of thumb would be to use another Worsted Medium (4) weight yarn to substitute and not a different weight class of yarn, such as a DK Light (3) weight yarn or a Bulky (5) weight yarn. Any big differences might lead to a garment looking, fitting, and/or draping drastically differently than you might otherwise want. Note: the classifications in the Standard Yarn Weight system contain variance in thickness within each individual number. A common example of this would be choosing a pattern that calls for a certain Medium (4) weight yarn. A Medium (4) weight yarn could range from a true Worsted weight yarn all the way to a thicker Aran weight yarn. This could result in, for example, one brand’s Medium (4) weight yarn to be thicker or thinner than their own or another brand’s Medium (4) weight yarn.

Another important thing to consider when substituting is the length/weight, such as yards/grams, of the yarn. So if your pattern calls for a yarn that is 180 yards long and weighs 100 grams, you should endeavor to use a yarn that is similar enough to that ratio in both length/weight. In our experience, changing this too much does have a big effect on the finished garment.

The next things to consider when substituting are the fiber content and texture of the yarn. A 100% Acrylic smooth and shiny yarn will most likely look, feel, stretch, and drape differently than a 50/50% rough and fuzzy Alpaca Wool/Cotton blended yarn. Make sure to keep this in mind when substituting and, if you want to keep it simple, use similar enough substitutes to avoid unwanted impacts to the completed pattern.

Finally, it is always a good idea to make a swatch with your substitute before you dive into the pattern in order to test out if your substitute is going to work the way you and the pattern intend. You may find that you need to move up or down a needle or hook size, or you might even find that your yarn substitute isn’t suitable at all!

Whatever the case, whenever you choose to substitute a different yarn than what the pattern calls for, taking these considerations into account and testing them out in a swatch before you begin will help to ensure that your finished garment will much more closely resemble what the pattern details and you’ll assuredly be glad you took the time to plan/test it out!


Demystifying Yarn Labels

We get a lot of questions about individual skeins of yarn and what their labels/symbols mean. The information on the label is critical when choosing what needle/hook to use, knowing how many skeins you will need, and so much more. Most questions about a specific yarn and how to use it can be answered just by reading and utilizing the information given on its label. Here is an overview of how to read one:

  1. Brand name of the yarn
  2. Yarn materials – This details the composition of the yarn itself.
  3. Yarn weight symbol – This symbol represents the size of the yarn from numbers 1-7, with 1 (Lace) being the smallest/thinnest to 7 (Jumbo) being the largest/widest. We are going to delve into all of the yarn weight numbers and what they mean in our next blog post, so stay tuned! 
  4. Color name and number – This is the name of the color and its corresponding number. The color name/number and the brand name are vital identifiers when you need to locate some more of the exact same yarn, whether at a store or online.
  5. Dye lot number – Have you ever noticed that sometimes the same color of a brand of yarns don’t quite look the same? Most of the time, there is going to be some variance even within the same colors! Use the same dye lot number whenever you can if you are planning to start a project that will require more than one skein of yarn. Some yarns will not have a dye lot number and will simply state “no dye lot.”
  6. Weight of yarn in ounces and grams
  7. Care instructions
  8. Company name and address
  9. Yarn length in yards and meters – The length of the yarn is very important information, as most if not all patterns detail just how much you will need to complete the project. Knowing the yarn length and how much your pattern calls for will save you another trip to the store if you can purchase exactly what you need beforehand!
  10. Gauge information – These information boxes detail the suggested knitting needles and crochet hooks to use when working with the yarn. The other numbers around each box represent the expected gauge, which is the number of stitches per inch and 10x10cm swatch. Use the information provided here to help choose what size needle or hook that you will need, whether by going with the suggested size or making a swatch with the yarn and adjusting your size based on your particular knitting/crocheting tension and output.

Pro Tip

Happy Friday dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association Family! This week we thought that we’d offer some words of wisdom to our crafting family; gauge is important. Having the right gauge for the project that you are going to be crafting can genuinely be the difference between having a nice, properly fitting garment that looks professional, and one that doesn’t look at all like the garment from the pattern that you chose. 

Before starting a project, work a gauge swatch. We know that gauge swatches can seem tedious and redundant, especially when you are raring to go on an exciting new garment. However, knowing that you have the right gauge for the project that you are going to be working on can offer great peace of mind and can make all the difference in the world! Knitting or crocheting a swatch can also save you a lot of time and heartache in the long run. 

If you find from measuring the stitches from your gauge swatch that you are a tighter knitter/crocheter than your chosen pattern calls for, consider moving up a needle/hook size. Conversely, if you find that you are a loose knitter/crocheter, move down a needle/hook size.