Yarn Substitution

Happy Friday, dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association family! Some of our recent blog posts touched on demystifying yarn labels and explaining the Craft Yarn Council’s Standard Yarn Weight system. However, we’ve had many questions from several volunteers about yarn substitution and we’d like to answer some of those questions!

Yarn substitution is when you want to substitute a different yarn than the one recommended by the pattern that you are using. There could be many reasons why you might want to: you may want to avoid a certain type of yarn because of allergies or preference of fibers, you may want to use out yarns that are already available in your stash, or you may want to use a more economical option than the yarn suggested, etc. Either way, there are certain considerations that you must keep in mind when substituting different yarn(s). 

One of the first things to check, is whether the yarn company (e.g. Red Heart, Lion Brand) providing your pattern has a dedicated page on their website concerning suggested yarn substitutions. This may save you the time of trying to find a suitable yarn that will work with your chosen pattern.

The next consideration when choosing a proper yarn substitute is choosing a yarn that falls within the same weight (thickness) category in the Craft Yarn Council’s Standard Yarn Weight system. For example, if the yarn suggested in your pattern calls for a Worsted Medium (4) weight yarn, a good rule of thumb would be to use another Worsted Medium (4) weight yarn to substitute and not a different weight class of yarn, such as a DK Light (3) weight yarn or a Bulky (5) weight yarn. Any big differences might lead to a garment looking, fitting, and/or draping drastically differently than you might otherwise want. Note: the classifications in the Standard Yarn Weight system contain variance in thickness within each individual number. A common example of this would be choosing a pattern that calls for a certain Medium (4) weight yarn. A Medium (4) weight yarn could range from a true Worsted weight yarn all the way to a thicker Aran weight yarn. This could result in, for example, one brand’s Medium (4) weight yarn to be thicker or thinner than their own or another brand’s Medium (4) weight yarn.

Another important thing to consider when substituting is the length/weight, such as yards/grams, of the yarn. So if your pattern calls for a yarn that is 180 yards long and weighs 100 grams, you should endeavor to use a yarn that is similar enough to that ratio in both length/weight. In our experience, changing this too much does have a big effect on the finished garment.

The next things to consider when substituting are the fiber content and texture of the yarn. A 100% Acrylic smooth and shiny yarn will most likely look, feel, stretch, and drape differently than a 50/50% rough and fuzzy Alpaca Wool/Cotton blended yarn. Make sure to keep this in mind when substituting and, if you want to keep it simple, use similar enough substitutes to avoid unwanted impacts to the completed pattern.

Finally, it is always a good idea to make a swatch with your substitute before you dive into the pattern in order to test out if your substitute is going to work the way you and the pattern intend. You may find that you need to move up or down a needle or hook size, or you might even find that your yarn substitute isn’t suitable at all!

Whatever the case, whenever you choose to substitute a different yarn than what the pattern calls for, taking these considerations into account and testing them out in a swatch before you begin will help to ensure that your finished garment will much more closely resemble what the pattern details and you’ll assuredly be glad you took the time to plan/test it out!


Demystifying Yarn Labels

We get a lot of questions about individual skeins of yarn and what their labels/symbols mean. The information on the label is critical when choosing what needle/hook to use, knowing how many skeins you will need, and so much more. Most questions about a specific yarn and how to use it can be answered just by reading and utilizing the information given on its label. Here is an overview of how to read one:

  1. Brand name of the yarn
  2. Yarn materials – This details the composition of the yarn itself.
  3. Yarn weight symbol – This symbol represents the size of the yarn from numbers 1-7, with 1 (Lace) being the smallest/thinnest to 7 (Jumbo) being the largest/widest. We are going to delve into all of the yarn weight numbers and what they mean in our next blog post, so stay tuned! 
  4. Color name and number – This is the name of the color and its corresponding number. The color name/number and the brand name are vital identifiers when you need to locate some more of the exact same yarn, whether at a store or online.
  5. Dye lot number – Have you ever noticed that sometimes the same color of a brand of yarns don’t quite look the same? Most of the time, there is going to be some variance even within the same colors! Use the same dye lot number whenever you can if you are planning to start a project that will require more than one skein of yarn. Some yarns will not have a dye lot number and will simply state “no dye lot.”
  6. Weight of yarn in ounces and grams
  7. Care instructions
  8. Company name and address
  9. Yarn length in yards and meters – The length of the yarn is very important information, as most if not all patterns detail just how much you will need to complete the project. Knowing the yarn length and how much your pattern calls for will save you another trip to the store if you can purchase exactly what you need beforehand!
  10. Gauge information – These information boxes detail the suggested knitting needles and crochet hooks to use when working with the yarn. The other numbers around each box represent the expected gauge, which is the number of stitches per inch and 10x10cm swatch. Use the information provided here to help choose what size needle or hook that you will need, whether by going with the suggested size or making a swatch with the yarn and adjusting your size based on your particular knitting/crocheting tension and output.

Pro Tip

Happy Friday dear T.H.R.I.V.E. Association Family! This week we thought that we’d offer some words of wisdom to our crafting family; gauge is important. Having the right gauge for the project that you are going to be crafting can genuinely be the difference between having a nice, properly fitting garment that looks professional, and one that doesn’t look at all like the garment from the pattern that you chose. 

Before starting a project, work a gauge swatch. We know that gauge swatches can seem tedious and redundant, especially when you are raring to go on an exciting new garment. However, knowing that you have the right gauge for the project that you are going to be working on can offer great peace of mind and can make all the difference in the world! Knitting or crocheting a swatch can also save you a lot of time and heartache in the long run. 

If you find from measuring the stitches from your gauge swatch that you are a tighter knitter/crocheter than your chosen pattern calls for, consider moving up a needle/hook size. Conversely, if you find that you are a loose knitter/crocheter, move down a needle/hook size.